BIKE WHEELS WITH BLUE LED (DIY) how to put lights in bicycle wheels.

BIKE WHEELS WITH BLUE LED (DIY)

Step 1: Materials and Tools

MATERIALS:

- 6 blue LEDs

- heatshrink tubing

- 3x 100 ohm resistors

- ON/ON switch

- 9V battery snap connector

- 9V battery

TOOLS:

- soldering iron

- solder

- scissors

- cable ties

- nippers

Step 2: LEDs and Resistors

I decided that 6 LEDs would have done enough light, and as I initially thought, the result is fantastic!
I suggest you to put 6/8 LEDs depending on the size of your wheel ;)

I wanted to make the result as clear as possible so I soldered two LEDs with a resistor, leaving the wires long as the wheel spokes (24cm) at the sides, and the double (48cm) in the middle. (this because the middle wire will connect two LEDs fixed on two different spokes, so it will have to go from one LED, down the spoke till the wheel hub and again up on the other spoke till the second LED)

Before attaching the LEDs to the spokes, I suggest you to check if all works correctly and if your LEDs are bright as they should be.

After you have soldered, tested and insulated all the three couples, you can go to the next step.

Step 3: Switch and Battery Snap Connector

In this step we will simply solder a switch to the 9V snap connector.

Step 4: Attach LEDs and Cables to the Spokes

Now comes the wearisome step! :P

In order to make an almost perfect circle when the LEDs are working and the wheel is spinning, I decided to secure them at 3,5cm from the bicycle's rim.

I have 18 spokes so I secured them with cable ties at the same distance spacing them 2 spokes. (I mean: 1spoke with LED, 2 free spokes, 1spoke with LED, 2 free spokes, etc)

Now you should have something that looks like photo#3.

Then it's time to secure the longer cables on the spokes with other cable ties. I suggest you to use a lot of them to be sure that the cables will not move around, but not too many otherwhise you will not end with a clean look like mine.

At the end of this step you should have secured all except for the 3 negative wires, and the 3 positive ones

Step 5: Attach Battery and Switch to the Hub

Now it's time to plug the 9V battery to the snap connector, and to set the switch to OFF.

As you can see in the photo, I glued the switch directly to the battery with Super Attack to keep it in place. (I know that I could have found a better idea to secure it like attach on the spokes, but this was just a quick solution.. 

So I secured the 9V battery to the wheel hub with two cable ties, and I finally soldered the 3 negative wires to the negative wire that comes from the battery, and the 3 positive wires to the positive wire obviously.

At the end, I tested the whole project by playing with the switch and I insulated the two last connections.

Step 6: Finish!! Have Fun in your Nighttime Bicycle Rides.

For any query mail to sciencebuddy98@gmail.com

VIKAS

Format a partitioned storage device and make a bootable usb device.

Step 1: Open command prompt

Press simultaneously the windows key and the R key, and the "Run" window will appear. In it, type cmd. This will open up command prompt, which will be used to format your storage device.

Step 2: Open DiskPart

In the command prompt, type diskpart. If a window pops up asking you to grant administrator access, click yes. Diskpart is used to add partitions to storage devices, remove partitions, assign letters, and more.

Step 3: View all storage devices connected

To prevent things from going terribly wrong, remove as many storage devices (except the one you are trying to format) from your computer. Then in command prompt, type list disk. This will show you a list of storage devices connected to your computer.

Step 4: Select your storage device

In the list diskpart shows you, find the storage device you want to format. Look at the size of the volume. For example, if you are formatting an 8GB SD card, look for a volume around that size. In my case, 0 is my internal hard disk, and 1 is my 8GB SD card. Once you have found which number represents your storage device, type select disk #, # representing the number of your device.

Step 5: Remove all partitions

Now, type clean. This will clear the partition table.

Step 6: Create a main partition

Now, you must create a partition to make your storage device usable. To do so, type create partition primary.

Step 7: Format it

To avoid file corruption, format it. Just type format fs=fat32. 

The process will take time as a 32 GB USB will take hours and hours.

Assign the USB a drive letter. Enter the command assign to give the thumb drive a letter designation. Type exit to end the disk management program.

Copy the operating system. Once the USB drive has been made bootable, you can copy over the installation files for the operating system you want to install. You can do this by dragging and dropping using your preferred file manager/explorer.

Copy over any drivers you might need during the operating system installation to make the process much smoother.

AND ITS DONE !

WATCH OUT THIS VIDEO TO LEARN BETTER. 

आईये बेहतर तरीके से सीखे , नीचे दिए वीडियो को देखिए। 

for any query mail to sciencebuddy98@gmail.com

VIKAS

Wireless electricity transmission circuit

I am gonna show you how to make a wireless electricity transmission circuit,

This is a simple circuit that can power a light bulb without any wires, at a distance of almost 1 inch! This circuit acts as both, step up Voltage converter and also wireless electricity transmitter and receiver. This is a really easy project to do, and could be used in many ways if improved. So lets get to it!

Its based on the simple concept of mutual inductance.

Step 1: Materials and tools necessary for the project

So to make this circuit you will need:

1) NPN Transistor. I used 2N3904 but you could use any NPN transistor. Most commonly you could find BC 337, BC547 etc. (Any PNP transistor would work, just reverse the polarity of the connections.)

2) Magnet wire or insulated wire. About 3-4 feet of wire or less should be enough. (Magnet wires are just copper wires with very thin enamel insulation) You could find wires from most electronics, like transformers inside CFC Bulbs, inside speakers, inside motors, inside relays etc.

3)Resistor 1 Kilo Ohm. This resistor would be used to protect the transistor from burning out in case of overload or excess usage ad heat. You could use higher values upto 4-5 Kilo OHM. You could even decide not to use a resistor, but that would draw in more amps, thus draining your battery faster.

4) L.E.D light . I used a 2 mm Ultra Bright White L.E.D. You could use any L.E.D (Light Emitting Diode). For this circuit, the L.E.D only shows the circuit in action.

5) A 1.5 Volt AA Battery . ( Do not use batteries of higher voltage unless you want to damage your transistor.)

Tools needed:

1) Scissors or knife.

2) Soldering Iron (Optional). If you don't have a soldering iron, you could just twist the wires and leads for connection. That's what I used to do when I didn't have soldering iron. If you want to try the circuit on solderless breadboard, you are good to go.

3) Lighter (Optional). We will be using lighter to burn off the insulation from the wire, then just use a scissor or a knife to scrape off the insulation.

THE CIRCUIT DIAGRAM

For any query please contact sciencebuddy98@gmail.com

VIKAS

Electricity Generating Footwear - Generate Electricity By Walking

Did you know that you can produce electricity by just walking? Here's a little science experiment that will show you a little trick on making insoles that can charge USB devices! The challenge is to make a slip-on insole that can produce enough electricity to charge batteries/ USB devices. 

Concept Behind The Project:

Piezoelectricity was present ever since mid-18th century. Piezoelectricity is the electric charge that accumulates in certain solid materials (such as crystals, certain ceramics in response to applied mechanical stress. This sounds familiar! Yes they do, you can actually find those piezo elements in your old/ outdated earphones from the 90's. 

NOW THE FINAL STEPS TO MAKE IT :

Parts/ Materials:
- Cheap/ Generic USB Power-bank
- Piezoelectric Transducers (6x)
- 1N4007 Rectifier Diodes (4x)
- Hookup Wire (at least 12")
- Old Pair Of Shoes
- Contact Adhesive

Optional: 
- 100nF Mylar Capacitor (for testing)
- Hoop & Loop Fastener (Velcro)
- LED Indicators (for testing)
- Superglue (for fixing wires)
- Smartphone Sport Strap
- 5v Switching Regulator (w/ super-cap)

STEP 1 : MAKE YOUR SOLE



Get the size and shape of your shoe's insole then get a pair of heavy-duty shears/ snips and carefully cut the PVC material. The plate will act as the primary mount of the piezoelectric discs/ elements.

Remember: Thickness matter, you need at least 2-5 mm. If your material is too thick, the piezo elements will break due to too much flexing. If your material is too thin, the piezo element won't bend at all thus converting less power.

Step 2: Find And Cut An Ideal Material (Sheet/ Plate)

Now surround the PVC plate with three piezo discs. How do I know where the center is? The "center" that I'm referring to is area where all the pressure is withdrawn by your foot, your sole.

After getting a fix preview of the setup, get a pencil and trace the piezo discs. Finally use your compass to draw smaller circles, about 
2 mm smaller in radius. The 2 mm spacing will act as your margin.

What material should I use?
Based on my design, I needed a plate that is 2-5 mm thick, lightweight, stiff and can endure a lot of flexing. Metals are too stiff while carbon fiber is too thin. After playing around with a bunch of materials, I've found out that PVC fits best in my application.

Were did you get the PVC material? 
PVC materials are all around us. You can find them in your local hardware store but in the form of pipes. I got mine from our excess supply of PVC pipes when our house was built.

Step 3: Grinding Holes On PVC Pads

In this step, grinding is required to bore/ drill round holes. Since I don't have large drill bits (as large as the marked area), I've thought of way to cleanly cut the holes and that's by using my handy rotary tool. 

If you don't have a rotary tool, you can still cleanly cut the plastic by doing it "the old fashioned way", by heating an iron nail and melting the plastic.

Step 4 : Gluing The Piezoelectric Elements.

These piezo discs must endure a lot of flexing since you'll be stepping on them repeatedly! Never use superglue, if you do, the moment you step on your insole the piezo discs will snap off the PVC pad. Instead, use those quick setting "contact adhesives". Their rubbery characteristic makes them ideal for this project since they stretch whenever they are bent.

Step 5 : Soldering The Piezos Together

Solder all piezo elements together in parallel. Don't solder them in series because you'll need more current than voltage and those piezoelectric discs will cancel each other's power output when not actuated at the same time.


Piezo elements produce AC currents. Unlike DC currents, you can't just tap in the line. since AC currents are always alternating polarities. Just like power generators, whether it may be solar or petrol, you can't just tap directly to the power-lines without aligning the AC wave's phase otherwise the generator will cancel each other. (Ex. Negative meets Positive - Positive meets Negative). This infers that parallel works best for our project. 

Step 5 :Soldering The Piezos Together

CIRCUIT CONNECTIONS

Step 6 : Adding Foams Pushers

 Now glue small a small piece of foam on the very center of each piezo disc. These foams will act as pushers. These foams will squeeze the piezo discs inwards (like sand witches) while walking.

Step 7 : Observation And Testing

Finally, we are going to test the validity of or theory. Start by getting a digital-tester and switch it to the 2 digit DC range. Remember, piezo elements produce a short burst of current the moment you push them so adding a 100 NF capacitor should make the readings much more readable.


My volt meter displayed:
Pressing By Hand = 15.03 volts (2 mA)
Walking By Foot = 18.53 volts (5 mA)
Running By Foot = 27.89 volts (11 mA)

Step 7 : Installing The Insole

Step 8 : Adding A Powerbank + Soldering

SOLDER THE WIRES TO THE BATTERY

                                                            AND ITS MADE

              

   For any query mail to sciencebuddy98@gmail.com

   And don't forget to comment....

    

  VIKAS 

AN USB DESKTOP FAN

This is my third blog and i am gonna show you how to make a USB DESKTOP FAN.

THESE ARE THE COMPONENTS YOU REQUIRE

STEP 1 :

Cut off the USB cord as close as you can get to the end that doesn't go into your computer. If it has one of those cylinders chop that off too. Cut off the jack to the fan. Strip all wires. Find out which wires are power on the fan by using the 9 volt to test different wire combinations. Remember that you might have the right wires but have them backwards, and then it wont spin, so try each combo both ways. If the fan spins, those two wires work . Once you find the two wires, cut off any other wires.To test the USB cord plug one end into the computer and use the multiplier to test different combinations of wires. Mine was black and red, but i don't know if all cords are the same, but test those two first anyway. Once you find the two power wires, fold down

the others onto the cord itself and tape around them, like the picture.




STEP 2 :

Use the small wire nut to connect the two red wires. Put the switch in by attaching one black wire to one peg and the other black wire to the other peg. You can also have the reds on the switch and the blacks connected, it doesn't matter as long as the colors are the same. After you get the wires on the switch, you can solder them on( i used hot glue because i still need to work on my soldering). once you have done that, use a band of electrical tape around the fan to attack it all. make sure you attach it so the switch is pointing the same way the fan will blow.

STEP 3 :

Once you have everything put together except the stand, you need to test it. Plug the cable into a USB port and flick the switch. The fan should blow in the direction the switch is pointing. If something doesn't work, tinker with it until it does.


STEP 4 :

Use pliers to unwind the wire hanger. cut off the bottom bar so it is 17.5 inches long. I don't like to type long things, so i put pictures in chronological order. just use a ruler for measuring and needle nose pliers for bending



YOU ARE DONE!


ENJOY IT

for any query contact sciencebuddy98@gmail.com

you can get the components on www.electroncomponent.com

CHEAP SMARTPHONE MICROSCOPE

This is my second blog and i am gonna  show you how to make a microscope out of your smartphone, you just need few things.

1-  An smartphone

2- Any laser light/pointer or a lens

3- smartphone case

STEP 1 :Firstly  open the laser light firmly and then bring out the lens which is present inside the laser light.

 


STEP 2 :  Place the lens over your phone case so that the camera can focus on the lens like this.

    STEP 3 : CLICK AWESOME IMAGES......

    I HAVE CLICKED SOME OF THEM

COIN

ROOT CROSS-SECTION

SIMPLE LEAF

For any query mail me at sciencebuddy98@gmail.com

VIKAS PANDEY

LASER SECURITY SYSTEM

     

Its my first post , today i am posting about " how can you make your own Laser Security System", its very easy and cheap, you could find many of the components at your home , the mechanism is very simple, a laser beam guards your stuff , if some one tries to touch your stuff the beam is broken and the buzzer beeps you could even connect a camera on the place a buzzer so that a picture is also clicked, you just have to solder the switch to the place where the buzzer is jointed, and its made.

TRY IT YOURSELF.......

Component Required :-

1- 5K ohm  Potentiometer
2- LDR
3- NPN 2N3904 Transistor
4- Buzzer (3v - 6v)
5- 9V Battery
6- Laser pointer or Laser light
7- 3 Mirrors
8- Wires

                                      

                                        ORIGINAL CIRCUIT DIAGRAM

LAYOUT OF LASER SECURITY STSTEM

                              

                               SELF MADE CIRCUIT (EASY)

You can buy all these components at  "www.electroncomponents.com"

For any query mail me at sciencebuddy98@gmail.com

VIKAS PANDEY